Friday, July 20, 2018

Giving the Majacraft Rose a Second Chance


Everyone deserves a second chance, right?

Anyone following my blog may have stumbled upon a post from the past in which I wrote about a bad experience with a Majacraft dealer and the Majacraft company.

Some time later, my Lendrum and I began having issues and I felt somehow held back by him. The point is that I had become restless and a bit dissatisfied- it had everything to do with me and nothing to do with him.

As a result, I began looking at other wheels.

I intended to purchase the Majacraft Aura- but when a decently- priced used Rose came my way, I couldn’t resist. I admit: I lack impulse control when it comes to all things spinning. The Chemist can vouch for this.

In any case, my beef was with the dealer from whom I purchased my original Rose- which was guilty of nothing other than not being an Aura.

The dealer in question was uneducated about what she was selling and, when someone is uneducated and selling expensive wheels, it can only mean trouble.

The Majacraft company couldn’t do anything to remedy the situation, as U.S. dealers have complete control over their pricing, policies, etc.

Again, when a company is manufacturing very expensive wheels, it’s hard to stand by said wheels when absolutely no control is exercised over what happens to their wheels once they leave the workshop.

Still, the Majacraft company was not at fault. I know that, now.

So, when I had some questions about purchasing the Rose, feedback and answers from the company (Glynis) were prompt and invaluable.

And I really wanted to upgrade…

So I bit the bullet and purchased the used Rose- thinking that I would reserve the Aura for bulky/ art yarns and use the Rose as my workhorse.

I liked the Rose better the second time around- most likely because I had begun to dislike the Lendrum so much.

I also think that, as a more experienced spinner, I was better able to understand, and therefore, work with the Rose.

The Rose- when used properly- spins up the best, most even, most consistent yarn I have ever spun. She is definitely my go- to wheel when I need perfect- looking yarn.

However, because she is fiddly, she isn’t the type of wheel on which I can just sit down and spin (hence the bold- typed “perfect”). There is an element of discomfort when I use the Rose- because it can be stressful to get things just right. Then, as the bobbin fills, it is necessary (again) to get the tension just right.

I am thinking that being able to be intuitive about tension- as I was with the Lendrum- will come with time. Hopefully, anyway.

I also find the grooves on the wheel that work with the different grooves on the pulley to be both ingenious and confusing. This is most likely because I don’t pay attention to actual ratios but, instead, know that I am using a fast, medium, or slow pulley. It’s much easier to just wing it when only one set of grooves- or pulleys- must be taken into consideration. Again, I suspect that- with time- which groove and pulley groove to use will be come instinctual.

     The Rose is an innovative, well- built wheel. It is clear that a lot of thought went into designing and building her. She is mostly made out of (soft) Rimu wood, though- which can ding easily.

Rimu is lovely, though, and is a rich, honey- color with a beautiful grain.  

The drive wheel is made from MDF- which may or may not be an issue for some people.
One major plus (for me, anyway) is the flyer. I really like the delta orifice for most of my spinning needs. I also love the sliding hook. The flyer is slick and sleek looking as well.

I also really like the fact that the Rose is so easy to treadle; it really feels like one is barely exerting any effort to keep the wheel going.

The Rose comes with a built- in handle and can be folded for stoarage and transport. It is on the heavy side, though, and so I am not sure how easy it would be to transport it. Also, I am not sure if I would feel comfortable taking such an expensive wheel on jaunts out and about. That’s a personal choice, though, and I have seen Roses out and about.

Ratios included: 4.25:1 - 19.5:1.

The Rose comes with both a standard flyer and orifice and a flyer with a delta orifice. I use the standard orifice for lace- weight, flax, and N- plying (I just can’t make that work with the delta), and the delta for everything else- even long- draw. Both flyers feature sliding hooks (yay!).

The upright that holds the flyer can be tilted to match one’s height and spinning posture. This is the secret to using the delta for long- draw spinning- and it makes for a comfortable (posture- wise) spin in general.

One thing I really like about Majacraft is that there are many accessories for their wheels. While some purists may argue that most extras are unnecessary, I believe that whatever makes one’s life easier- and spinning more fun- can’t be a bad thing. Majacraft understands spinners and works to make spinning exciting and innovative.

Majacraft customer service can’t be beat, either. Whenever I have a question, Glynis usually responds quickly and thoroughly addresses my issue, or answers my question.

I like the Rose. I’m not sure if I love it- only because it seems like a one- purpose wheel- and its purpose is perfect, consistent yarn. I don’t always have time to spin- and nor do I always want- perfect, consistent yarn.

Again, with time, I may relax a bit while using the Rose- which may enable me to get creative and spin more types of yarn on her. Only time will tell (stay tuned!).

New, the Rose retails at $1,469.00* (bought from Woolery stock) or at $1,340.00* when shipped from New Zealand (where Majacraft is located).

I would be negligent if I didn’t write about the fact that Majacraft can personalize one’s wheel- and that Majacraft is very good about special orders. This indicates that Majacraft really loves their customers- and that the company supports creativity and individuality. This means a lot to me!

Would I pay (at least) $1, 340.00 for a new Rose?

Honestly, I’m not sure. The Rose is a great wheel- and is great for certain applications. It is comfortable to treadle and so can be used for long spinning sessions without any discomfort. I’m not sure if the Rose is meant to be a production wheel but it easily could be.

And, while the Rose comes with many ratios- which means that many types of yarn could be spun on the Rose package alone- the fact that so many accessories can be purchased for a reasonable price means that one can spin anything using the Rose.

I suppose that, if I had money enough, I would purchase the Rose new. It’s that sweet of a wheel.

However, because I don’t have money enough- and may never have money enough- the possibility of being able to purchase the Rose new is little to nil.

Why am I not absolutely in love with my Rose?

Most likely because I like spinning to be relaxing. I like to sit down after a hard day of yelling at my kids and just spin. I don’t want to fiddle with this, or that- and I’m almost always not looking for perfect yarn. I just want to sit down and relax- doing something I enjoy. Fiddling with the tension detracts from the experience. This is just my opinion, though.

I feel like I have to be mentally sharp when using the Rose and, at the end of the day (when I primarily have time to spin), I am anything but mentally sharp. I am usually exhausted and half- asleep.

I wish, too, that Majacraft made a bulky flyer with a normal- type orifice; although it is my understanding that one can be special- ordered.

Last, I believe I should mention that the Rose may be better suited for confident spinners who are comfortable with tension and understand how tension and ratios work. That doesn’t mean that a beginner couldn’t learn on the Rose; it just means that there is a lot of thought that goes into tensioning and picking ratios- and it might be difficult to set things up so that they are “just right” while one is just learning to spin. After all, it is hard enough to learn how to spin without having to worry about fiddly tension and a somewhat complicated ratio system.

Along this vein, the Rose isn’t exactly child- friendly, either. To put this into perspective, my 14- year old daughter prefers my Paradis CPW over the Rose. In fact, she- and all of my daughters- have a difficult time using the Rose. They could, however, use the Lendrum.

Speaking of child friendly: unless your kids (or grand kids, or nieces and nephews, etc.) have been taught how to behave around spinning wheels, you will want to hide your Rose somewhere away from prying eyes, feet and hands. Better yet- even if the children in your life behave kindly towards wheels- hide the Rose, anyway. Rimu wood is soft and, therefore, dings and scratches easily. My belief is that it is the nature of kids to have the inherent ability to destroy everything in sight.

So, the bottom line is: if you have the money to blow- by all means, purchase a Majacraft Rose.


Used Roses are great, too, though!

One last issue I must bring up is that of Majacraft dealers. If you plan on purchasing any Majacraft wheel from a dealer, make sure that he/ she is knowledgeable about Majacraft wheels and accessories. Majacraft does not oversee its dealers in the traditional sense and so individual dealers have total say over price, return policies, etc.

* Woolery prices. Look around for the best prices possible. I have found the best prices for new Majacraft wheels at: www.woolydesigns.com. This husband and wife pair are great people whose primary goal is to make excellent wheels (Majacraft) wheels more affordable Their prices are based on the value of the U.S. vs. New Zealand dollar- which means that their prices fluctuate. However, their prices seem to be consistently lower than anyone else's.

The Case of the Half- Washed (and a bit felted) Clun Forest Fleece

The Case of the Half- Washed (and somewhat felted) Clun Forest

Hi all!
It’s been a while. If anyone is actively following my blog, I must apologize for my lack of posts.

Life gets busy with kids, farm chores, garden, work, etc. And, I must warn you: my life is about to get even busier, as I am going to start school this August.

But, for now, I’m here, and I’m blogging.

Some months ago (yes, it’s been months), I bought a few bags of Clun Forest fleece and bartered another for a finished product. I had never processed or spun Clun Forest before and so, when I notices some for sale just north of me, I decided that I had to purchase it.
Some information on Clun Forest: Clun Forest is a considered a fine fleece with an average micron count of 27- 29*. The fleece is known for consistency; that is, having the same type and texture of fleece throughout the body of the sheep. Clun Forest sheep are not supposed to have any dark or gray hairs, and they are a high- lanolin breed. This means that it can take a bit more time to thoroughly scour Clun Forest fleece. It also means that Clun Forest is a prime candidate for the suint fermentation method (yay!).

The fleece I got had already been partially washed. I say “partially” because it had been scoured- but not thoroughly.

It had also been put- somewhat wet- into a plastic bag and, therefore, a cardinal rule had been broken: dear Readers: please do not ever put even somewhat wet fleece into a plastic bag! Spread it out and let it dry!

Anyhow, there it was.

I noticed a bit of felting but it didn’t seem too bad.

One bag, however, smelled a bit of mold already. Bad.

I must defend the seller’s actions by stating that it was cold and snowing when I purchased the fleece. This would have made finding a place to dry the fleece difficult. The seller planned on drying the fleece outside and was blindsided by an impromptu and odd spring snow storm.

He was also new to fiber processing. We’ve all been there!

Anyhow, I believe that I got a good deal on the fleece, and was pleased to have met a nice, semi- local shepherd.

Most of all, though, I was pleased to experiment with a new type of wool; yummy!

So, I got the fleece home and evaluated the situation. This is how I always go about things so that I can come up with a plan of attack.

The one bag of fleece was more moldy than I thought and so I decided to soak it in a borax/ Dawn dish soap solution with a few drops of tea- tree added.

Some of the wool was extremely felted- and most of it seemed on its way to felting. Still, I wasn’t deterred.

After a few weeks- yes, weeks- worth of deliberation, I determined that the best course of action would be to pick the fiber as is and spin it in the grease. After which I would finish the scouring process by setting the twist. I also decided that I would most likely spin up singles that I would partially felt during the scouring process. This would add strength and character to the finished yarn.

I knew that I wanted to spin up a singles yarn for use in my finished product because I wanted to show off the wool and keeping it simple would best accomplish that.

Also, I planned on knitting a cabled scarf- thinking that this would definitely show off the fleece. Cables always seem to put a fiber’s best foot forward. Also, cables are fun to knit and always yield an eye- catching results.

I was not planning on dyeing the wool because, again, I want the fleece to stand out. I also wanted the cables to stand out and this is often best accomplished by using light- colored yarn.

So, that’s where I was a few months ago. Then life got busy.

Now I am at it again.

Yesterday, I put on the Chieftains and got serious about the fleece.
The Plan of Attack

I wasn’t going to deviate much from my original plan. At first...

I can’t use the fleece as-is because the locks are closed and somewhat felted. It must be processed somehow.

I could re- scour it but, since it has begun to felt, I am concerned about felting it more. It seems like once the process of felting has begun, there is not turning back.

I could flick it, or run it through a carder- but that would take forever.

I decided to use my box picker- my thought being that this would kill two birds with one stone: it would open the locks; and (2), it would (hopefully) free the wool from debris and VM.
I picked and picked- running the fleece through the picker several times. While the picker opened the locks, it didn’t remove as much VM as I would have liked. I believe that this is due to the (still) high- lanolin content of the fleece; it acts like glue.

However, significant progress was made.

While picking, though, I began to revisit scouring. I may scour a bit of the fleece- just to see if it felts further.

Why?

Because, somehow, I will have to clean out my picker. This will be a bloody job to which I am not looking forward. Ouch!

Also, how the heck am I going to further process the wool? I can’t use my drum carder (too much grease), and I don’t want to use my hand cards (too much grease).

As it, I will have to cloud spin, or core spin the wool because I don’t want to gunk up either of my carders. And the wool has to be carded, as it has such a short staple length. I hadn’t thought about preparation beyond picking; my bad!

Another reason to re- scour: I noticed that a good portion of the fleece was neppy after being run through the picker. While neps are a bane for those wanting a consistent, smooth yarn, they can also add texture and interest. I like texture. I’m thinking tweed yarn woven into cloth and then cut and sewn into a vest for my dad- who loves tweed vests…

However, as I have already mentioned, I can’t card the fleece in its current, greasy state on either of my carders and, therefore, can’t take full advantage of its neppy goodness.

Last, I wanted to spin a somewhat smooth singles yarn to use for a knit, cabled scarf. I am not sure that cloud spinning the picked fleece will yield the results necessary for the finished project I have in mind.

Again, without being able to card the fleece, my options are limited in regards to getting the result I want in my finished project.

So, that’s where I’m at.

In closing, I should state that, if my hand cards were in better condition, I wouldn’t think twice about carding the greasy wool. However, my carding cloth is starting to flake off of my ancient cards and so attempting to remove any grease from them may prove fatal (the the cards, not me).

I suppose I should add new carders on my list of future fiber tools…


About Clun Forest Sheep:


- Originated from Shropshire, England
- A rugged, hill breed known for easy lambing and vigorous lambs
- Dual purpose breed
- Wool should be free from kemp and dark or gray wool
- Spinning count averages 58; micron count appears to be 27- 29*


Source: North American Clun Forest Association http://www.clunforestsheep.org